Friday, November 7, 2008

Climbing Dictionary R to Z


Rack
The climbing gear carried during an ascent. 
(d) Materialsortiment, (f) matériel / matos, (i) equipaggiomento / assortimento di materiale, (e) bandolera / bandola, (s) racka / utrustning, (pl) sprzet / spej
Rack, to
To sort the rack before engaging on the next climb or pitch.
Rad
Not trad. Slang for sport climbing. 
Rally, to
To climb exceptionally well, especially on normally difficult climbs. 
(f) randonner
Ramp
An ascending ledge
(d) Rampe 
Rappel, to
Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope. Known in Britain (and Germany) as abseiling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen/abseilen (i) Calare (in corda doppia), (e) Rapelear, (s) Fira, (pl) Zjezdzac
Rappeler
Individual who enjoys sliding down ropes instead of climbing up rocks. The second-lowest form of life on earth (second only to the touron)
Rating
A number denoting the technical difficulty of the climb. See here for more on ratings and grades. 
(d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) Cotation
R.D.S.
Rapid Deceleration Syndrome. Military term for the very sudden illness that happens at the end of a long fall.
Redpoint
To lead a climb without falling or dogging after a number of attempts. This is different from onsight, where the climb is lead without falling or dogging on its first attempt. 
(d) Rotpunkt, (f) Enchaîner, (i) Arrampicare in libera, (pl) RP
Resin
An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree resin" to use its full name) is made from the yucky stuff that sticks to your hands when you touch a pine tree. Because resin is mostly colorless, it is preferred to chalk in some areas. But caution: Don't let the color fool you. Resin can do permanent damage to the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the US for that reason.
(d) Pof, (f) pof, (nl) pof, (i) resina, (e) resina, (s) harts, (pl) zywica
Resident protection
Fixed pro.
Rib
A slender buttress. Something between a buttress and an outside corner. 
Ridge
The high divide extending out from a peak. 
(d) Grat (extending normally from one peak) / Kamm (connecting several peaks), (f) Crête (small) or chaîne (large)
Ring
A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented in the rock as a bolt. Rings are very common in Germany and France and are excellent for rappelling and hanging belays.
(d) Ring, (f) Scellement, (nl) Ring, (i) Anello da calata, (s) Ringbult, (pl) Ring
"Rock"
Scream let out to warn people down below that a piece of rock has been overcome by gravity. The loudness, number of repetitions, and/or panic in voice with which this word is uttered is often an indication of the seriousness of the rock. In the UK, you're more likely to hear "Below", beware! 
(d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Caillou", (i) "Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten", (pl) "Kamien" 
Roof
Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more or less horizontal). 
(d) Dach, (f) toit/plafond, (nl) dak, (i) tetto, (e) techo, (s) tak, (pl) dach / okap
Rope
Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbing ropes are generally between 10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception of "half ropes" which are between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter). 
(d) Seil, (f) corde, (nl) touw, (i) corda, (e) cuerda, (s) rep, (pl) lina, (sl) lano
"Rope"
Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the base of the crag (though most of the time it seems like "rope" is shouted about 1-2 seconds after the rope is thrown). In the UK, shout "Rope below". 
(d) "Seil", (f) "Corde", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda", (e) "Cuerda", (e-argentina) "va cuerda", (s) "Rep", (pl) "Uwaga lina" 
Route
A certain path up a rock or mountain. 
(d) Tour, (f) voie, (nl) route, (i) via, (e) ruta, (s) led, (pl) droga, (sl) cesta
Runner
A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied (Aka sling, especially in the UK). In the UK, a 'runner' is a running belay.
(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i) Anello, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga, (pl) Talma ?, (pl) Petla
Runner
A runner threaded or looped around chockstones, flakes, horns or chickenheads for protection. 
(d) Zackenschlinge 
Runout
Distance between two elements of pro. A route is "runout" when the distance between those two elements of pro becomes uncomfortably long. 
(d) Abstand zwischen 2 Sicherungspunkten, (f) (Une voie est) Engagée, (i) Via protetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco protegida, (pl) Odleglosc miedzy punktami asekuracji 
 

Saddle
A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear. Not quite as steep as a col. 
(d) Sattel, (pl) siodlo
"Safe"
The British equivalent of "Off Belay". 
(d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vâché", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e) "Libre", (s) "Lägg av", (pl) "Mam auto" 
Schwag
Terrible rock conditions.
Scrambling
Easy climbing, usually unroped. 
(d) Kraxeln, (f) Escalade facile, (e) Trepar, (s) Lätt Klättring 
Screamer
A very, very long fall. 
(f) Méga-plomb, (i) Mina / Randa, (pl) Dlugi lot 
Screamer
Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a screamer (the fall) on the belay system. 
(i) Dissipatore 
Scree
Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff. With every step, scree slides under your feet. 
(d) Geröll, (f) éboulis / caillasse, (pl) piarg
Screwgate
The type of karabiner that can be locked with a screw. See also twistlock. In the US this is usually called a 'locking biner'. 
Scrube
A hammer-in, screw-out type of ice screw.
Second
The climber who follows the leader. See also following. 
(d) Nachsteiger, (f) Second, (i) Secondo, (e) Segundo, (pl) Drugi na linie
Send, to
To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this route, dude!" 
Serac
A block or tower of ice on a steep glacier or in an ice fall. Since seracs are created by the force of gravity working on the glacier or ice fall, they can come down at any moment.
(pl) serak
Sewing-machine leg or arm
A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly starts jerking up and down like a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle, take a deep breath, and don't think of falling... (see also: to Elvis or the death wobbles). 
(d) Nähmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl) Telegraf
Sewn-up
When so much gear is on a trad route that it looks like it has been sewn shut.
Sharp end
The end of the rope to which the leader is attached. 
SH** !
Often heard during a fall... (Well educated climbers in the UK sometimes say "sugar" - but only if they're not in too much trouble). 
(d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c) "Chite!", (nl) Shit!, (i) "Merda!", (e) Mierda!, (s) Djävlar!, (pl) Cholera / Kurcze / Kurde
Short roping
Technique where both climbers are tied close together into the middle of the rope. The rest of the rope is then carried over the shoulders in a coil. Frequently used for simul-climbing. The term (and technique?) is used frequently in the Canadian Rockies. 
(d) am kurzen (or: verkürzten) Seil gehen, (f) faire des anneaux de corde, les anneaux á la main. 
Short roping
Belaying technique where the belayer keeps the leader under tension in an attempt reduce the length of a fall. 
Side pull
A hand hold that needs to be held with a horizontal (sideways) pull. 
(d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise verticale, (i) Maniglia rovescia, (s) Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) Odciag
Sit start
To start a bouldering problem from a sitting position. See also 'Yabo Start'.
Sierra wave
A lenticular cloud found mostly in the Sierras, but known to be forebode of bad weather in the Mont Blanc area.
(f) Âne
Sketch pad
A cushion used for bouldering.
Skyhook
A particular type of hook used for aid climbing
(f) Crochet à goutte d'eau
Slab
Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock. 
(d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl) Plaat, (i) Lastra / Lastrone / Placca, (e) Laja, (s) Sva / Platta, (pl) pologa plyta
"Slack"
Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into protection). 
(d) "Seil", (f) "Du mou", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda" ("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda", (s) "Slacka", (pl) "Luz"
Sling
What the Americans call a runner.
Slingshot
A toprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where the climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through the anchor at the top of the climb. In the UK, top-roping or bottom-roping (depends where the belayer stands).
Sloper
Pathetic downward slanting hold. (Usually look like buckets from below.)
(d) (Abschüssiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise fuyante, (i) Appiglio spiovente 
Smearing
Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible. The opposite of edging. 
(d) auf Reibung stehen, (f) grimper en adhérence, (i) aderenza, (e) fricción, (s) smeara, (pl) wspinanie na tarcie 
Snaplink
A truly British word for a karabiner. 
Softman / softwoman
A former hardman/woman who can accomplish climbs of epic proportion in comfortable style. Always has the warmest jacket, the biggest sleeping pad, the best food, and the finest of consumables. A title to aspire for.
Soloing
Climbing alone, though not necessarily without the protection of a rope (unless you're in the UK, where a solo is always a free solo). 
(d) solo klettern, (f) soloer, (e) escalar en solitario, (pl) wspinaczka solowa
Sport climbing
Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while protection oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection. 
(d) sportklettern, (f) escalade sportive, (nl) sportklimmen, (i) arrempicata sportiva, (e) escalada deportiva (s) sportklättring, (pl) wspinaczka sportowa
Spray, to
To brag or gloat.
Stem, to
Bridging with the feet between two holds (US only). 
(d) spreizen, (f) se mettre en opposition, (i) opposizione, (e) oposición, (s) stämma / sprajsa 
"Stick it"
American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for it". 
(f) "allez !", (e) "asegura" 
Sticht plate
A belay device consisting of a plate with two slots in it. An original creation by Franz Sticht. 
(d) Sticht Bremse, (f) plaquette d'assurage, (f-c) plaque-frein, (i) piastrina sticht, (e) placa Sticht, (s) stichtbroms 
Stoked
Fired up, ready to play, very excited, really wanting to finish a particular climb.
Stylin’
Looking good, climbing well, having the most colorful clothing.
Stylin’
Living like a softman or softwoman.
Summit
The top of a mountain or rock. 
(d) Gipfel, (f) sommet, (nl) top, (i) cima, (e) cima / cumbre, (s) topp, (pl) szczyt
Summit, to
To reach the summit. 
(d) gipfeln, (e) encumbrar, (pl) wejsc na wierzcholek 
 

"Take"
American monosyllable for "Up Rope". Also used by top-ropers and sports-climbers to indicate that they have reached the top and want to be lowered.
(d) "Seil ein" / "zu" / "dicht", (f) "avale", (e) "recupera", (pl) "wybierz"
"Take in"
The British equivalent of "Up Rope". 
(d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f) "Avale", (i) Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl) "Wybierz" 
"Taking in"
Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the belayer. 
(f) "J'avale" 
Talus
Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree. 
Tape knot
Or threaded overhand knot in the US.
Tarn
A small lake. 
10essentials
That part of your climbing gear you don't want to leave at home. 
"Tension!"
Yelled out to the belayer to make sure he really takes in the slack. Usually "tension" is used by a climber that is ready to pop off. The progression of severity usually goes "up rope", "tight rope", "tension!".
(f) "Bloque"
"That's me"
Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtesy call to the belayer to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless. 
(d) "Seil aus", (f) "Bout de corde", (pl) "Koniec luzo" 
Third classing
Climbing without a rope on easy ground (see also class)
Threaded overhand
Solid but not failproof knot also known as water knot or tape knot (UK), or ring bend when used on webbing.
(d) Sackstich in Ringform, (e) Nudo encontrado 
Thrutchy
Requiring a whole lot of strength (and enthusiasm in a way). Used in Australia - where all the climbing is upside down.
Tick marks
Little smears of chalk used to locate holds when bouldering.
"Tight rope"
Or just "Tight". Urgent request to the belayer to take the slack out of the system. Somewhat stronger than "up rope". 
(f) "Sec", (f-c) "a sec", (e) "Tensa" 
Toe
The bottom of a buttress. 
Topo
A short drawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to spot the line right away, show the placement of bolts and belay stances, indicate where the crux is and what rating it has. 
(f) Topo, (i) Topo, (e) Topo 
Top-rope
Free climbing a route that has the safety rope attached to the top of the climb (usually one walks to the top to set up the top-rope belay). 
(d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f) Moulinette, (nl) Toprope, (i) Corda dall'alto, (e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl) Wedka
Touron
A cross between a tourist and a moron. Typically asks stupid questions like “How did you get the rope up there?” Definitely the lowest form of life on earth.
Trad
Traditional climbing, characterized by the placing of protection (cams, nuts, etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also includes multi-pitch routes often with long runouts.
(d) Traditionelles, Alpines Klettern, (f) Classique, (nl) Alpijns klimmen, (i) Tradizionale, (e) Escalada tradicional /clásica 
Trad fall
A fall during a trad climb, sometimes accompanied by the popping sound of protection succumbing to the temptations of gravity. See also 'crater' and 'screamer'. 
(f) Devissage 
Traverse
Horizontal climb. 
(d) Quergang, (f) Traversée, (nl) Traverse, (i) Traverso, (e) Travesiacute;a, (s) Travers, (pl) Trawers
Trucker
Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece of pro. 
Tunnel
A tunnel through or hourglass shape in the rock that allows a runner or cord to be fed through for protection. 
(d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunule, (i) Clessidra, (nl) Zandloper, (e) Túnel 
Twistlock
A locking karabiner where the gate is locked with a spring-loaded clip.

Undercling
A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside down. As it is, underclings are usually awkward holds that require lieback type moves. 
(d) Untergriff, (f) Inversée, (nl) Ondergreep, (i) Presa rovescia, (e) Undercling, (e-argentina) Toma invertida, (pl) podchwyt 
"Up Rope"
Yelled by the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay. (In UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me"). 
(d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale", (nl) "Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa", (s) "Ta hem", (pl) "Wybierz" 
 

Verglas
Thin water ice on rock. 
(f) Verglas, (pl) Oblodzenie
Vôgen
Great, super. "Everything's vôgen."
 

Warthog
A roughened spike hammered into certain kinds of ice or frozen turf for protection. Very popular on mixed climbs in the UK
"Watch me"
Call to indicate the climber is about to do something stupid -- like fall. 
(d) "Pass auf", (f) "Fais gaffe", (nl) "Let op", (i)"Occhio" / "Guardami bene" / "Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuídame", (s) "Beredd?", (pl) 
Water ice
Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water is even flowing around the ice. Can be found in the couloirs of the High Sierra in autumn (and in many other places). 
Water knot
See tape knot.
(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (e) Nudo encontrado, (s) Vattenknop, (pl) Wezel wodny 
Way
Extremely. “I was way scared on that run-out”.
Webbing (tubular)
Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside. 
(d) Schlauchband , (f) Sangle (tubulaire), (nl) Schlinges, (i) Fetuccia tubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s) Tubband, (pl) Tasma rurowa 
Webbing (loop of)
A runner made of webbing. 
(d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle (anneau de), (i) Anello di cordin / Anello di fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga 
Weighting
The delicate test of placing weight on a piece of pro after placing it. Usually with aid climbing.
Whipper
A very long fall. 
White ice
Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from melted-and-frozen snow. Good climbing stuff. 
(f) Glace blanche
Wombing
Doing a no-hands-rest. 
Woodie
A homemade climbing wall. 
(f) Pan 
 
X
 

Yabo
As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start'. Named after John Yablonski a stud southern California climber, who was nicknamed Yabo.
Yard, to
To pull on a piece of protection. Strictly speaking aid climbing.
YDS
Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American rating system. 
 

Zawn
A deep and narrow fold or inlet in a sea cliff. British.
Zipper
A fall where the protection pulls out one after the other as the leader succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a grounder (or a cardiac arrest). 
(d) Reißverschlusssturz, (f) Déboutonner (verb), (pl) Suwak
Z-Pulley System
Complicated rope setup that allows you to hoist heavy weights with relatively little force. Excellent for rescuing or hauling bags. 
(d) Flaschenzug, (f) Moufflage 

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