Friday, November 7, 2008

Climbing Dictionary M to Q


Manky
Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was placed before the last ice age. Use these bolts at your own discretion 
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri/clou rouillé 
Mantle
Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges. 
(d) (Durch)-stützbewegung, (f) Rétablissement, (i) Ristabilimento, (s) Mantla 
Mixed climbing
Climbing with a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc. 
(f) escalade mixte, (pl) wspinaczka mieszana
Moat
The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems ever since the middle ages. 
Mountain rescue
The people who put their life on the line when you screw up badly. 
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours en montagne, (i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate de montaña, (s) Bergräddning 
Munge
The dirt and vegetation that can sometimes be found in cracks. In the UK: Choss.
Multi pitch climb
Climb that consists of more than a single pitch. 
(d) Mehrseillaengentour, (f) voie de plusieurs longueurs, (nl) klim van meerdere touwlengtes, (i) via da piu' tiri, (e) ruta de varios largos, (s) tur med flera replängder(?), (pl) droga kilku wyciagowa / wspinaczka wielowyciagowa
Munter hitch
Knot used for belaying (Aka italian hitch or friction hitch). The Germans love this knot (see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f) Demi-cabestan, (nl) Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo dinamico, (s) Munterknut 
 
 

Nailing
An ancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing with pitons. 
Needle
Rock with a characteristic pointed shape. Also known as pinnacle, aiguille, gendarme, etc. 
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme, (i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e) Aguja, (s) Pinnakel, (pl) Igla 
Névé
Consolidated granular snow formed by repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. Also used to indicate permanent snowfields. 
(f) Névé 
Notch
A small col.
(d) Scharte, (f) Brèche
Nut
Metal wedge used for protection in cracks. 
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut , (i) Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl) Kosc
Nut key
The piece of metal that Americans call a nut tool. 
Nut tool
Piece of metal that can be used to remove stuck nuts or cams. In the UK: nut key.
(d) Keilenentferner, (f) Décoinceur/sardine, (i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces, (s) Kilpetare 
 

"Off Belay"
Yelled when the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because she/he has reached a stance). Once the belayer hears "off belay", he/she removes the rope from the belay device and yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and New Zealand: "Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais, vaché!", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e) "Libre", (e-argentina) "autoasegurado", (s) "Lägg av", (pl) "Mam auto" 
Off width
A climb too wide to jam, too small to chimney. And then I've heard of people who actually like this kind of climbing. 
(d) Schulterriß, (f) Offwidth, (e) Off width, (pl) Rysa szersza niz piesc 
"On Belay ???"
Query to verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber (US only). 
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends ???", (i) "Sei pronto ???", (e) "?Subo?" / "?estás listo?", (s) "Sakring klar ???", (pl) "Moge isc?"
On-sight flash
Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging and without any prior attempts, watching someone do it or beta on how to do the moves. 
(f) Enchaîner en tête à vue, (i) A vista, (e) A vista 
Open book
Same as a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes of rock join in an acute or obtuse corner that faces left or right. 
Outside corner
Also known as pillar or arete. 
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro 
Over-cam, to
Compressing a cam to its absolute minimum size during placement, effectively eliminating the possibility of extraction.
Overhand knot
A simple (but solid) knot in a double rope. 
(d) Sackstich, (f) noeud de queue de vache, (i) Nodo delle guide, (e) Nudo simple, (s) överhandsknut, (pl) Kluczka 
 
Overhand loop
The simplest type of knot possible. 
(d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache, (e) Gasa, (pl) Klucka z uchem 
Overhang
Rock (or ice) that is "more than vertical". 
(d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong overhang) or dévers (=slight overhang), (nl) overhang, (i) Strapiombo, (e) Desplome / Extraplomo, (s) Överhäng, (pl) Przewieszenie
Over-kilned
A boiler plate or flaky rock
 

Pass
The lowest passage between two mountains. The french - but not just the french - know this as a col. The mathematicians would call this the saddle point. 
(d) Pass, (f) col, (i) sella / colle / passo / valico, (e) collado / puerto, (s) pass, (pl) przelecz, (sl) sedlo
Party ledge
A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party !) during a particularly hard or long climb. Sometimes used to refer to the belay station on a multipitch climb. 
(f) terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat narrower ledge), (i) terrazza, (nl) plateau, (e) repisa 
pendulum
A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain a distant anchor on big wall climbs or unintentional when falling during a traverse with not enough pro in place. 
(d) pendeln / Pendelquergang, (f) pendule, (i) (traversata a) pendolo, (e) péndulo, (s) pendeltravers / pendla, (pl) wahadlo 
Pig
The haul bag using for big wall climbing. 
(d) Sau 
Pillar
Outside corner 
(d) Pfeiler, (f) pilier, (nl) pijler, (i) pilastro, (e) pilar, (s) pelare, (pl) igla / filar
Pimp, to
To do a short semi-dynamic stab. It's not quite a dynamic move, but it's also not quite static. It's the happy median.
Pink point
To red-point a climb where the pro and runners have been pre-placed. 
(d) Rotpunkt mit eingehängten Schlingen (Rotkreuz ???) 
Pitch
A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays pitches can also be 50 or even 60m long -- check your topo). 
(d) Seillaenge, (f) longueur, (nl) touwlengte, (i) tiro, (e) largo (de cuerda), (s) replängd, (pl) wyciag
Piton
Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come in disuse for all but some special applications) (Aka "peg" in the UK). 
(d) Haken, (f) piton, (nl) (mep)haak, (i) chiodo, (e) pitón / clavo 
Pocket
A hold formed by a (small) depression in the rock. 
(d) Loch/Fingerloch, (f) trou à doigt, (nl) gat/vingergat, (i) buca da dito, (s) ficka, (pl) dziurka
Portaledge
A hanging tent with built in bed used on big walls (and big trees). 
Pro, Protection
Anchors placed during the climb to protect the leader. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs. 
(d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) protection, (nl) zekering, (i) protezione, (e) protección / anclaje, (s) säkring, (pl) asekuracja 
Prusik
The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after its inventer Dr. Karl Prusik). 
(d) Prusik, (f) Prusik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik, (e) Prusik, (s) Prusik 
Pumped
The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are familiar with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes the forearms to swell and the strength to disappear. With a serious forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer can become a serious challenge. 
(d) dicke Arme (or any other body part), (f) avoir les bouteilles / daubé, (nl) verzuurd, (i) acciaiato, (s) pumpad 
Pumpy
Describes a climb that will leave you pumped.
 

Quickdraw, quick
Short sling with karabiners on either side. 
(d) Expreßschlinge, (f) Dégaine, (nl) setje, (i) Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina, (e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga / Kortslinga, (pl) Expres 

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