Friday, November 7, 2008

Climbing Dictionary H to L


HACE
High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result of high altitude exposure. Few people live to tell what it is like.
(f) oedème du cerveau
Half rope
A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a second rope when leading a climb. 
(d) Halbseil, (f) corde de rappel, (nl) half touw, (i) mezza corda, (e) media cuerda, (s) halvrep, (pl) lina polowka 
Handjam
Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack. 
(d) Handklemmer, (f) verrou (de main), (nl) handklem, (i) incastro di mani, (e) encuñadura de mano / -de palmas, (e-argentina) empotrar la mano 
Handle
Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one of those outdoors... 
(d) Henkel, (f) poignée / baquet / poignée de métro (parisians only) (nl) handvat, (pl) klama 
Hangdog, to
See Dog. 
HAPE
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result of high altitude exposure. Pretty serious condition that can quickly lead to HACE if a descent to lower altitudes is not made immediately. See also HACE. 
(f) oedème du poumon
Hardman / hardwoman
A climber with seemingly superhero strength who has survived epics of grandiose proportions.
Harness
Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can be significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling. 
(d) Klettergurt, (f) baudrier/baudard, (f-c) baudrier/cuissard, (nl) klimgordel, (i) imbragatura, (e) arnés, (s) klättersele, (pl) uprzaz
Haul bag
Large and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear, sleeping bag, television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up a big wall. Also know as "the pig". 
(d) Materialsack / Nachziehsack, (f) sac, (i) sacco da recupero, (e) petate / costal de escalada, (s) hissack 
Headwall
Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically. 
"Help"
The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries, try S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but is understood by most. 
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help", (i) "Aiuto", (e) socorro/ayuda, (s) "Hjälp" 
Helmet
Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket). 
(d) Helm, (f) casque, (nl) helm, (i) casco, (e) casco, (s) hjälm, (pl) kask, (sl) prilba
Herbish
The opposite of grodle. Not all that awesome. 
Hex
Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal shape. Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for camming. 
Hueco
A beautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after these incredible features found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas. 
HMS
Karibiner with one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka pearabiner). From the German term for munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung'. 
(d) HMS, (i) moschettone a pera, (s) HMS-knut, (pl) HMS (karabinek gruszkowaty) 
Hold
Anything that can be held on to. 
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl) Greep, (i) Appiglio / Presa, (e) Presa / agarre, (e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp, (pl) Chwyt
Horn
Spike of rock that can be for a great hold or not so great protection. The same as a chickenhead. 
Hurtin unit
That member of the climbing team that is suffering from severe exposure to alcoholic beverages the night before.
 

Ice axe
Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars. 
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl) IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet, (s) Isyxa, (pl) Czekan 
Ice screw
A protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be screwed in hard ice. 
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche à glace, (i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo para hielo, (s) Isskruv, (pl) sruba lodowa
Italian hitch
Munter hitch knot or HMS knot 
(pl) Polwyblinka
 

Jam, to
Wedging body parts in a crack. 
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un verrou / Faire un coincement / Coincer, (i) Incastrarsi, (e) Encuñar, (e-argentina) Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) Klinowac
Jingus
Gnarly, sharp, hard, or radical. Often used as an expletive.
Jug
Very large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket" in the US). 
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignée, (nl) bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina) Manija, (s) Brevlåda, (pl) Klama
Jugs
Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders. 
Jug, to
To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
(f) monter au jumar
Jumar
A type of rope ascending device. 
Jumar, to
To ascend a rope using ascenders. 
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear, (s) Jumarera 
 

Karabiner
Metal connecting device, sometimes spelled with a 'c' in the US. This most essential climbing device is also known as a "biner" in the US and as "crab" or "krab" (mostly) in the UK.
(d) Karabiner, (f) mousqueton, (nl) karabiner / mousqueton, (i) moschettone, (e) mosquetón / mosquete, (s) karbin / karbinhake, (pl) karabinek
Kernmantle rope
Modern climbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon filaments (Kern) surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle). 
(d) Kernmantelseil 
kN
Kilonewton. An abbreviation usually found on karabiners and other climbing gear. For those of you who are not engineers, one kilonewton is about 100 kg or about 220 lbs. (And for those of you who are, don't bother lecturing me). 
Knotted cord
Piece of cord with a knot tied into the end that is used for protection (pretty much like a nut). The traditional method of protecting climbs, and still used in the Elbsandsteingebirge in Eastern Germany. 
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde nouée, (i) Cordino annodato 
Krab
Short for Karabiner.
 

Largo start
A climb or bouldering problem where the first move starts with a jump for high holds. Named after John Long (or 'Largo').
Layback/Lieback
Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique where hands and feet work in opposition. 
(d) Piazen/hangeln, (f) Dülfer / opposition, (i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e) Dülfer, (s) Layback 
Leader
Person who leads a climb. 
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordée), (nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e) Primero / puntero, (s) Försteman, (pl) Prowadzacy 
Lead, to
To ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing protection (or clipping protection) as you go. 
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper en tête, (nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da capocardata, andare da primo, (e) Puntear / guiar, (s) Leda, (pl) Prowadzic
Ledge
Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic). 
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large) / Band (large laterally extended ledge), (f) Réglette/vire ("vire" is somewhere between a microledge and a party ledge), (nl) Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e) Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka
Limestone
Type of rock found in abundance in southern France (usually white and full of pockets and holds). 
(d) Kalkstein, (f) calcaire, (nl) kalksteen, (i) calcare, (e) roca calcárea, (s) kalksten, (pl) wapien
Locking biner
Karabiner that can be locked (in the UK, a screwgate or twistlock).
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton à vis, (nl) Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera, (e) Mosquetón de seguro, (s) Låskarbin / Skruvkarbin 
Lock-off
To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry. 
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl) Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e) Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av 
Lowering
To descend something or somebody. 
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette / mouliner, (nl) Zakken/naar beneden laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a alguien, (s) Fira ner 

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