Friday, November 7, 2008

Climbing Dictionary D to G


Daisy chain, A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aid climbing. 

Deadpoint, A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion (if you lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again). By grabbing a hold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest possible loads on the holds.

(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (f) Jeté, (pl) Wspinanie dynamiczne 

Death wobbles, The eerie sensation of jittery legs. Aka to Elvis or the sewing machine.

Deck, The usually unfriendly surface that welcomes you at the end of a grounder. 

Demigod, Highest form of life in the climbing cosmos. Does not need rock to ascend to great heights.

Descender, Device used for rappelling. 
(d) Abseiler, (f) descendeur, (i) discensore, (e) descensor, (s) firningsbroms, (pl) przyjazd zjazdowy 

Dihedral, The US term for an inside corner (Aka "open book"). 

(d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl) Versnijding/hoek, (i) Diedro, (e) Diedro, (s) (Inner-) hörn /

Dieder, "Dirt me"

US slang which means as much as 'Lower me'. 
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach" 

Dog (to dog a move), Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode of ascent...). 

(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo 

Double fisherman's knot, Solid knot used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka grapevine knot). 

(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double noeud de pêcheur, (nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto doppio/nodo doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop 

Double rope, Same as a half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes. 

(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde à double, (i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep 

Downclimbing, Descending the difficult way. 

(d) Abklettern, (f) Désescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare / Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklättring 

Dry tool, to, To ascend a section of rock using ice tools - very common in mixed climbing.

Dude, Generic name for a climber (in the US). 

Dynamic belay, A belay method in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall, but can also severely kill you if not done properly. 

(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica / assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinámico, (s) Dynamisk säkring, (pl) asekuracja dynamiczna

Dyno, Dynamic movement towards a distant hold. 

(d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl) Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinámico, (s) Dynamisk move
 

EB, A legendary brand of sport climbing shoes - started the free climbing revolution.

Edge, A sharp edge on a rock face. 

(d) Kante, (f) Graton, (i) Spigolo / lama, (e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) Kant

Edging, Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds. The opposite of smearing. 

(d) Kanten, (f) Gratonner, (e) cantear 

Elvis, to, To have a sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the King", who suffered from this this problem when singing before a crowd of screaming women. 

(d) Nähmaschine, (e) motoneta, (pl) telegrafowac

Epic, The story of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect. 

(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopée (e) Historia épica 

Etrier, (Pronounce with a french accent). Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Also known as 'aider'. 

(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar
 

Face climbing, Not crack climbing. 
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen, (f) Grimper en dalle, (i) Arrampicata su parete/Arrampicata in placca, (e) Escalada exterior, (s) Väggklättring, (pl) wspinaczka po plycie

Fall, to, A dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that it is never the fall that kills, it's the landing. 

(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un plomb / Voler / Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i) Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s) Ramla, Falla, (pl) odpasc

"Falling", Yelled when a climber is (about to) fall. 

(d) "ich stürze", (f) "bloque" (eqv. to 'tension'), (nl) "ik val", (i) "volo", (e) "caigo", (pl) “lece”

Fall factor, The length of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid out. 

(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur de chute, (i) Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de caída, (s) Fallfaktor 

FecoFile, A PVC tube used to store solid human waste on big walls. Aka the Shit Tube. 

Feet, Footholds.

Fifi hook, An open hook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing. Usually found on aiders, daisy chains, etc. 

(d) Fifihaken, (f) Fifi, (i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifí, (s) Fiffikrok 

Figure 8, Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.

(d) Achter/Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto (il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Åtta, (pl) Osemka 

Figure of eight, Very popular and solid tie-in knot.

(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht/achtknoop, (i) Nodo a otto / Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho, (s) Åttaknut, (pl) Osemka
 
Fingerlock, Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack. 
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou (de doigt), (nl) Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e) Encuñadura de dedos, (s) Fingerjam 

Firn, Old, well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous season. Closer to ice than snow in density, it may require the use of crampons. 

Fisherman's knot, Simple knot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman knot, however, is more popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud de pêcheur, (nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s) Fiskarknop 

Fixed pro, Bolts, rings, pitons, stuck nuts and cams and other piece of unremovable pro that may be found on a climb. Use at your own risk.

Flail, to, To become very unsure and sketchy. When the flailing goes into frantic grabbing for holds, a fall is not far away.

Flake, A thin bit of rock that is detached from the main face. 

(d) Schuppe, (f) Écaille, (i) Scaglia, (e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa 

Flapper, A piece of skin torn off your hand that creates a bloody wound. Usually happend when holding on too hard when gravity is winning. 

Flared, A crack or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two converging planes of rock. 

Flash, to, To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has never seen the climb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has studied the climb before or has seen someone do the climb). See there. 

(f) Enchaîner en tête 

Following, Not leading a climb. 

(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper en moulinette, (nl) Naklimmen, (i) Seguire (andare da secondo), (e) Segundear / escalar de segundo, (s) Följa, (pl) Chodzic na drugiego 

Free climbing, Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro are only used for protection of the climber and not for progression. 

(d) frei klettern, (f) escalade libre, (nl) vrijklimmen, (i) scalata / arrampicata libera, (e) escalada libre, (s) friklättring, (pl) wspinaczka klasyczna

Free solo, Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.

(d)Free solo klettern, (f) Solo intégral, (nl) Solo, (i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e) Escalada solitaria / Superlibre, (s) Frisolo 

Friend, Trade name for the original camming devices, now also available as Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc



Gas, The stuff your car and muscles run on. If you run out of gas.... 

Gate, The part of the karabiner that opens.

(d) Schnapper, (f) doigt, (nl) snapper, (i) leva, (e) pestillo, (e-argentina) leva, (s) grind, (pl) zamek karabinka 

Gerry rail, A hold large enough for the most senior climbers.

Glacier, A slowly moving permanent mass of ice. 
(d) Gletscher, (f) glacier, (nl) gletscher, (i) ghiacciaio, (e) glaciar, (s) glaciär, (pl) lodowiec 

Gnarly, Difficult, sharp, hard. Usually in reference to a hold or move.

God-save-me, The type of hold one lunges for hoping it will be the perfect bucket. 
Goomba, Novice climber who thinks he knows it all. Unlike boneheads, goombas don’t know enough to get hurt.

"Got me?", A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to put some weight on the rope.

(pl) “Trzymasz?” / “Blokuj”

Grade, A number denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused with the rating of climb, which describes the technical difficulty). In Britain, however, the word grade means both grade and rating. Look here for the different grades... 

(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) engagement, (e) grado, (pl) wycena 

Grapevine knot, Fisherman's knot.

Gravical, The adrenaline high felt with a lot of air between you and ground level. 'This is gravical, dude'.

Grease, to, Not being able to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due to the presence of sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in overused crags 

Grodle, Climbing English for awesome or cool.

Grounder, A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and pro, but rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly. 

(d) Bodensturz, (f) chute au sol

Grigri, Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl. 

Gripped, Paralyzed with fear and utterly confused. 

Gully, A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside. 

Gumbie, Also spelled Gumby. An inexperienced or new rock climber.

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